Welcome to SVEC’s FAQs. If you have a question about your cooperative or our services, please contact us. We will get you an answer. From time to time, other questions will be added to this list.
General Questions
SVEC is a member of Old Dominion Electric Cooperative (ODEC). SVEC purchases a majority of its wholesale electricity from ODEC. The cooperative also purchases a small portion of its wholesale requirements from the Southeastern Power Administration.
For a breakdown of the different sources of power, please visit our Energy Resource Center.
If you're moving to the area, or moving homes within the area, you may wonder if SVEC serves your new location. Boundary lines are drawn and regulated by the State Corporation Commission, meaning electric providers such as SVEC have defined areas to provide service. It's common to have multiple providers serving a single road, based on how the lines are drawn. Please contact the cooperative at 1-800-234-7832 if you are unsure about your location.
Electric Meter Questions
A kilowatt-hour (kWh) is a unit of electrical energy equal to the energy delivered by the flow of one kilowatt (1,000 watts) of electrical power for one hour. For example, a 100-watt bulb burning for 10 hours will use one kilowatt-hour of energy.
The amount of electricity you use is measured by your meter. Your meter measures kilowatt-hours continuously the same way your car’s odometer measures miles and is read in the same fashion, from left to right.
Since Shenandoah Valley Electric Cooperative uses digital meters, simply take the current reading and subtract the usage information contained on your last bill. This will indicate how much energy you have used.
Members frequently assume there must be something wrong with their electric meter if they receive a larger-than-expected electric bill. The fact is, electric meters are very reliable devices. Before a meter is installed, we test the meter for accuracy. Upon request, Shenandoah Valley Electric Cooperative will test a member’s meter for accuracy for a nominal fee.
If a meter test shows a meter is faulty, either slow or fast, SVEC will adjust the bill. However, if the meter is within the 2% tolerance allowed by our Terms and Conditions for Supplying Electric Service, the bill will not be adjusted. The terms can be read by visiting our Terms & Conditions page.
No, the meters that SVEC use throughout our system do not cause health issues. For a more detailed response, please read Smart Meters & Health (PDF).
Billing Questions
If you receive a bill that is higher than normal, the first thing to look for is how many days of service were included in that billing period. Find the average daily cost for service on the lower portion of your bill. Compare that number to previous bills for the past few months.
If it’s significantly different, stop to think if you have added a major appliance or altered your lifestyle in some way that would account for the increased usage.
Many factors can cause your electric bills to vary. Most commonly they include weather and changes of habits or lifestyles.
In hotter weather there can be increased usage due to air conditioning or even window fans. Hotter weather also leads to higher humidity so some dehumidifiers may run more often and for long periods of time.
In colder weather electric consumption can be increased by use of central heating equipment or space heaters. Typically during the colder parts of the year it gets dark earlier and people stay inside more. This leads to more use of lights, televisions, radios and other electronic equipment.
Changes in habits or lifestyles can also lead to varying electric bills. During the holidays your family may cook more. You may have overnight guests. Cooking and guests can lead to more use of water (and hot water). If you have a well and/or an electric water heater this will lead to more electric usage.
Another major change may be the addition of a new family member. Bringing a baby into a home usually adds to more laundry being washed, higher desired room temperatures and more lighting at night.
Furnaces have electric blower fans that operate when the furnace is on, and continue to run until the furnace cools past a preset level and then shuts off.
Vacation & Seasonal Use Questions
If you have an electric water heater it will use less electricity when you are away than if you were home using hot water. If an electric water heater is left energized during your vacation it will continue to maintain the tank temperature, even if you’re not using hot water.
Heat is lost through the insulation and copper pipes that come out of the top. If you are going to be away for more than a few days, you might want to consider turning your water heater off at the panel box.
If the temperature drops while you are away your furnace or electric heat will still run to maintain the temperature set on your thermostat. Setting the thermostat lower may save you money, but this might not always be the case.
Be careful not to set the thermostat so low that a potential for freezing could occur in your home.
If refrigerators and freezers are not emptied and turned off while you are away they will continue to operate in order to maintain preset temperatures. Other electrical appliances like clocks, security lights, water heaters and televisions with an “instant-on” feature will continue to use electricity if they are not unplugged or shut off at the panel box.
If you are determined to use no electricity during your vacation, turn off the main breaker in your home. But remember, when you do this the automatic appliances and lighting will stop. Your refrigerator and freezer will defrost, your water heater will not have hot water ready for use upon your return, and your home may experience freezing problems or be very cold when you return.
The National Electric Code (NEC), Article 700-6 and Article 230-83, requires that for safety reasons a “double-pole, double-throw transfer switch be installed.” It is SVEC’s recommendation that the transfer switch be installed by a licensed electrician for safety reasons as well as for proper application.
Not really. In most fireplaces all the energy (heat) from the burning wood, plus some of the home’s other heat, is lost up the chimney. Open fireplaces act as a vent to the outside of your home. Therefore, even when the fireplace is not in use heat can escape through the chimney if the damper is not tightly closed.
Lighting Questions
It is a myth that it costs more to turn off fluorescent lights than to leave them on. This was true in the 1940s when fluorescent lamps first became popular because turning them off and on again greatly shortened the lamp life. Today’s lamps are not as affected by start-up damage and the energy surge to start them up is so small that it’s cheaper to switch them off when they’re not needed.
The most efficient lighting sources available today are Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs), which have replaced fluorescent and CFL bulbs.
Use only the amount of light you need.
For maximum lighting efficiency use a higher lumen-per-watt bulb. Watts measure the amount of energy going into a bulb. Lumens measure the light output or brightness of a bulb. This information is printed on bulb packages. To determine efficiency, divide the lumens by the watts of electricity used.
For example, the efficiency of a 100-watt bulb measuring 1710 lumens would be 17.1 lumens-per-watt.
Long-life bulbs are less efficient, so use them only in hard-to-reach places where it’s difficult to change bulbs.
Appliance Questions
A 20-year old refrigerator will cost more per month to operate than a new refrigerator. This is because of the increased efficiency of compressors and the higher quality insulation value found in newer model refrigerators.
To find your monthly cost to operate each appliance, multiply the total kilowatt-hours used by the current energy rate (approximately 11 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh)).
For example, if you have an appliance that uses 3 kWh per month and an energy rate of 11 cent per kWh the cost would be 33 cents per month.
Check out our appliance calculator in the Energy Resource Center here: Home Appliance Calculator
You need no more than 3 pieces of information.
First, look at the name plate on the appliance. You are looking for a number with a “W” beside it. This stands for wattage. Some appliances provide the amperage (A) and voltage (V) in place of the wattage. To get wattage, simply multiply amps times volts. An example would be a 120 V heater rated at 12.5 amps. This would equal 1500 watts.
Now to determine kilowatt-hours (kWh) you need to take the length of time (in hours) an appliance operates. Take watts and multiply by the hours of operation. Using our heater example above we would have 1500 watts times the number of hours of use. If we use that heater for 2 hours we would have 3000 watt-hours of electricity used.
To convert watt-hours to kilowatt-hours you must divide by 1000. Therefore, our 1500-watt heater operating for two hours would use 3 kilowatt-hours.
Energy Saving Questions
If you have a mechanical thermostat it would be beneficial to install a programmable thermostat and then you can program it to come on.
Normally with a heat pump, it is recommended to leave it on a desired setting, but if you want to move it, do so in 1º F increments.
If you are using a heat pump as your source of heat, no. Heat pumps are designed to operate more efficiently with an open house effect because of the balancing and cold air returns of the system.
Usually the usage will increase because the unit you install may need more electricity to operate because of the compressor size.
No, if used as a main source of heat, a 1500-watt heater uses 1.5 kW per hour of operation.
No, you should never use your oven as a heat source.
At least 2 times a year, but you should check them monthly and replace more often if needed.
Yes, because they do not have compressors and do not use the same energy levels as an air conditioner.
You should check the information provided by the manufacturer or installer, however, as a rule it is recommended that you should have heat pumps serviced before the heating season and before the cooling season.
While these steps do create savings on your energy usage, the cost for updating with energy efficient heat pumps and appliances may lead to a greater savings over a longer period of time.
Yes, plus there is a low cost for material and a quicker return on the investment.
Yes. The recommended temperature settings are 68º F in winter and 78º F in summer.
Yes, the recommended temperature range is 120 to 125º F.
Yes, if you insulate the first 6 feet of the hot water line.
Yes, the technology used today makes energy efficient appliances a fairly long term return on your investment.
Yes.
Yes, it is recommended to use CFL, fluorescent, or the new LED lighting in areas that are used most frequently in your home.
Yes.
You should do full loads to get the most from the electricity used for the cycle, regardless of the size. You should also try to run these appliances during off-peak hours. Peak hours are generally 3 to 8 p.m. in the summer and 6 to 9 a.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. in the winter.
Yes, the leaking faucets or toilets cause consumption by the water heater and the well pump.
No, there’s not enough load in these appliances and devices to carry (phantom load). Learn more about phantom power.